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I wouldn't go less than a 10x optical zoom and 8 megapixels. I use three different cameras. A point-and-shoot, an advanced point-and-shoot and a dSLR (canon Xsi or 450D). I took my Canon Xsi with me (and after much relfection, I'm taking it with me again next year).

Canon

Canon's PowerShot series SX110, SX10 or SX1 are good. The SX110 is the cheaper of the three.

The Canon SX110 (last year's model, the 120 is out now) retail around $249. Camera prices are usually stable and won't go down in price much.

The SX110 boasts a 10x optical zoom and is 9 megapixels. When looking a cameras, pay special attention to the "zoom range." Digital zoom is NEVER, EVER, a good thing. It pixels your image because what it does is crop it an additional 4x. It looks horrendous. A lot of conventions pictures are ruined because people understand the digital zoom on the cameras. I turn off the digital zoom on all my p-and-s cameras.

The newer version on this line, the SX120 is also 10x optical zoom but is 9 megapixels. Its maximum ISO (which I'll explain in a bit) 3200. It's also a Digic 4 (which is Canon's processor chip), which basically translates that it "records the image" faster. But that means little if you're using a slower card.

Unlike some of the other SX cameras, the viewscreen is fixed to the back of the camera. Which means you can't swivel it out to take photos at different angles using the view finder.

The SX200 IS is also new. This camera is 12.1 megapixels with a 12x optical zoom. This camera features a HD movie recording. It's more pricey at $349.

The SX10 is also a year old model. This camera has a 20x optical zoom and is 10 megapixels. The main feature of this camera is that it has a variable LCD screen, which means it moves around to allow you to take photos at different angels without having to use the view finder. Another feature of this camera is that has the ability to attach an external flash to boost range.

The SX20 is the newest model. There are three major differences between this model and last years. The SX20 has HD movie, 12.1 megapixels and 3200 ISO.

Both the 10 and the 20 are $399.

The SX1 was released this year in the U.S. It's been available for some time abroad (since last year). This camera is 20x optical zoom, 10 megapixels CMOS (which means that it captures in RAW, a digital negative format). This camera retails for about $599. It's almost as expensive as Canon's low-end dSLRs. This camera also allows to you attach an external flash.

Moving up the food chain on Canon is their dSLR (EOS) lineup. Without going into too much detail, this is the most expensive route and I only suggest it if you're serious about getting into photography. I've spend nearly $5000 over the last two years on gear. That includes camera, accessories, lenses and other things.

Canon is my preferred choice.

Now for Nikon

Nikon's point-and-shoot line is called Coolpix.

The P90 is the second in terms of performance for the p-and-s line. It features 12.1 megapixels and 24x optical zoom (26-624mm). This camera is $399.

Nikon does have a lower end long telephoto camera in the Coolpix L100 series. Coming in at 15 optical zoom and 10 megapixels, it provides a decent enough camera for the cost at $249. It's a cheaper alternative to some of Canon's PowerShot lines with more zoom.

Now for Sony

Sony's point-and-shoot line is called CyberShot (and was the first digital camera I ever had).

Their cheapest one is $279. The DSC-H20 is a 10x optical zoom and a 8 megapixel camera.

Their most expensive is the $499 HX1. It's 9 megapixels and has a 20x optical zoom. You're paying for the zoom and the ability to capture images in RAW.

Kodak

Kodak's Z980 comes in at $399 is a 24x optical zoom with 12 megapixels. It also has a "hotshoe" which allows you to add an external flash.

For those on a TIGHT budget, Kodak has the X8612 IS at $199. It's got a 12x optical zoom and 8.1 megapixel.

Kodak, unlike Canon and Nikon, has a lot of 10x+ point-and-shoot cameras in the sub $300 range.

Some things to consider:

Camera manufacturers love to boast at the ISO capacity of their cameras as a way to "fight" low-light situations. The sad reality of the ISO is the noise factor and this'll show up in lowlight photos with your images looking grainy.

The optimal ISO is 200 or less, but 400 and 800 is "okay" with some noticeable grain, but not likely to really offend anyone. But a lot of this depends on the camera manufacturers. Anything above 800 will show up on your photos.

Don't buy a camera for the ISO. Buy a camera for the optical zoom capacity, followed by the megapixels, features, then the ISO.

RAW versus non-RAW cameras - cameras with RAW capability means that when you download the photos, you'll have to convert them to JPG (for the 'net, etc). RAW allows you to process photos, fixing lighting, color, etc using either in-house programs, or Adobe's Lightroom. Each manufacturer's RAW is different.

Batteries, with the exception of Kodak (I believe), all other cameras require double AA's. Unless you have a connection for double AA's don't buy the throwaways. I suggestion Energizer rechargeable batteries.

If your camera (such as the dSLRs and Kodaks) uses a battery pack, buy at least one extra battery for your camera.

A word of note: REMEMBER YOUR CHARGER as your camera can't charge the batteries (though I think some of Kodak's cameras will charge when plugged into the USB on your computer.)

Where to buy:

I STRONGLY suggest test driving your camera at a local store, even camera stores. Best Buy, Walmart, etc always have camera's on display. Make sure it feels right in your hand, etc.

If you BUY from the internet… Amazon.com DIRECTLY, B and H photo, Adorama photo, Calumet photo are good places to go.

Best Buy, Walmart, Target, K-Mart, Sam's Club, Costco, Sears, etc are also good places to go if you want a physical store to walk into.

lizgirl17 wrote:

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xwpweb I'm thinking of getting a new camera can you tell me the model number of your canon and do you use an external flash ?